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My Trip to Taiwan

By: FrancEs Yee
12th to 17th June, 2004

Between Japan and the Philippines lies Taiwan, formally known as the Republic of China. An island 394km long and shaped like a tobacco leaf while some others say like the sweet potato, has its high mountains running from the northeast corner to the southern tip of the island. That literally constitutes the vertical right half of the island, including more than two hundred peaks with elevations of over 3,000 meters.

My tour covered practically the whole of the other left half: Round island tour, it was. At RM1598 (with an extra RM52 for airline fuel increase), this bought me a 6-days-5-nights tour package – which was all I could afford anyway – though an additional one or two days would have been ideal. Bah!

12 June 2004 - North Taiwan
As usual, it was an afternoon flight. These tour companies just seem to want you to arrive late in the evening, just in time for you to make an evening check-in and get dinner – which was exactly it. We touched down at Chiang Kaishek Airport, Taipei almost 5 hours later and after summoning everybody on the same tour, we were then transported to our hotel in Taoyuan, which should have been about 20 minutes away, but with traffic on that evening, 40 minutes. Taoyuan, situated west of Taipei, is adjacent to the airport. Apart from being near to the airport, there’s little reason to visit this city. I suppose we stopped here since we would be heading this way for our onward journey tomorrow anyway.

After refreshing ourselves, we walked around the streets nearby in hope to try any local food and whetted our appetite with some popular msg-coated fried chicken, which was wickedly tasty. After a little more walking, we settled for some dry flat noodles with minced pork and bamboo shoots complete with a bowl of clear soup and two gigantic pork balls. Verdict? Distinctively delicious!

13 June 2004 - North Taiwan
All ready by 7.30am, we travelled an hour towards Keelung, the third largest port in Taiwan. About 10km northwest of Keelung, we arrived at our first stop, Yehliu Park. Known for its bizarre, jagged natural rock formations by the sea, landscape here was spectacular (below). The morning sun was warm, in fact, quite hot coupled with the winds from the sea and the sounds of water clashing on the cliffs. Err, was there water clashing? I thought not but the sea was beautiful blue. Yehliu's eroded rocks of inspiring shapes resembled a nymph's sandal, a wading elephant, tofu cubes, honey-combed, mushrooms (which looked like a penis' head to me, excuse my language) (below centre) and even a queen's head (below right). How amazingly true!

PrincEss with Yehliu Park on the background

Mushroom rocks (with the Queen's Head at the top, far right Queen's Head

From here, we continued on for almost 2 hours to Chiufen, a mountain village nicknamed by the locals as 'Little Shanghai'. We had to take a 10-minute feeder bus on a winding, hilly and narrow road to reach this place. The end of the journey opened up to rows and rows of unique teahouses on the steep alleys selling all sorts of tea and local snacks and an assortment of other knick-knacks. Here’s where we got the best 'mochi', mini dough in different shapes and sizes, made of glutinous flour which was a little chewy and a little gummy with sweet fillings like green bean, red bean, black sesame, crushed peanuts, yam – you name it! I gave it a miss because I thought that I would only get them closer to the end of my tour but I was disappointed. Here was the only place one can get the individually packed mochis and regretfully, I came home mochi-less!

Having travelled for another one and a half hours thereafter, we arrived to Nanfang’ao, an attractive fishing harbour where we visited the main attraction, Nantien Temple. It was built right on the waters edge of the Nanfang’ao Harbour and was 3 levels high. There was a very impressive gold-plated statue of Matsu, goddess of the sea, on the second level and a jade one (below centre) on the third level. One can get the full view of the fishing port and the intricately carved roof of the temple from here, which made out to be a sea of colourful, curvy dragons (below right).

Some celebration at the temple entrance

The Jade Matsu Statue Temple roof and view of fishing harbour

4 hours later, we were in Hualien, the largest city on the east coast, just in time for dinner and ended the day with a traditional Ami-tribe aboriginal song and dance show.

14 June 2004 - East Taiwan
25km north of Hualien was Tienhsiang where the top scenic attraction, the Taroko Gorge lies (3 pictures below). An impressive backdrop of near-vertical marble mountains and a gaping rift in them, the marble canyon would have featured rushing whitewater river but with the summer skies, the river was pretty dry. Walking along the mountain edges and looking at those towering cliffs rising from the river bed was breathtaking! Hualien must be one of the most beautiful places in the east coast with its many suspension bridges, hiking trails and many hot springs.

A marble cave

PrincEss at the river with lots of marble rocks under HOT sun! Changshun Tzu Temple among the foliage

Being in the city of marble, we naturally made a stop at a marble factory where we were shown the end product of marbles, which included beautiful jewellery. Hmm, jewellery made from marbles? Amazing!

A day with the longest hours of travelling, we then embarked on a 7- hour journey to the southwest towards Kaohsiung, the second largest city in Taiwan. Upon arrival in the evening, we had some time for a bit of shopping at the Women Street night market. Definitely not enough time and a taster of more night markets to come!

15 June 2004 - South West Taiwan and West Central Taiwan
With the biggest seaport situated in this county of Kaoshiung, it was only natural to be shown around. Briefly after that, we travelled 30 minutes north of Kaohsiung to suburban Tsoying, where the best temples were clustered around a Lotus Lake. We first stopped at a Taoist temple dedicated to Kuan Kung, the God of War (below left). Directly opposite of the Taoist temple was the Spring and Autumn Pavilion (below centre), standing on an islet connected to the south shore of Lotus Lake, where one enters through the jaws of a life-sized dragon sculpture. A stone's throw away stood the twin, seven-tiered Dragon and Tiger Pagodas (below right), which were joined to shore by a nine-corner bridge. It was believed that by entering the dragon's throat and exiting at the tiger's mouth symbolizes a good turn in luck.

Kuan Kung, the God of War

Spring & Autumn Pavilion which extends to the lake 7-tiered Dragon (left)& Tiger (right) Pagodas

Next attraction, Fokuang Shan or Light of Buddha Mountain (8 pictures below) which was located about an hour away from northeast Kaohsiung. The grounds consists of several shrine halls surrounded by cool colonnades, pavilions and pagodas, bridges and footpaths, libraries and meditation halls, ponds and grottoes, and an exquisite Buddhist statuary. Near the entrance, the tallest Buddha image on the island stood at 32 metres high, surrounded by 480 life-sized images of disciples. Fokuang Shan is nestled amidst a dense bamboo forest.

(Click on thumbnails to enlarge)

1Map of Fokuang Shan

2Hill of little buddhas

3Entrance to the 3 golden buddhas

43 Golden Buddhas

5Life-sized images of disciples

6Buddha of 32 metres high

7more life-sized disciples

8Pagoda at the entrance of Fokuang Shan

After lunch, we continued on for what felt like 4 hours towards Taichung, the third largest city in the west central, with the best climate in Taiwan. We were all taken to a hotspring for a dip but as I didn't have my swimsuit with me, I gave it a pass and had hard boiled eggs (boiled in hotspring) instead. Towards late evening after dinner, we had some time for some real shopping at the Chunghua night market. Shops run in a square and within it, a mosaic of shops with various goods available. Though I find all things to be generally quite pricey, I managed to buy 2 pairs of shoes at a bargain!

16 June 2004 - Back to the North
On a two and a half hours bus journey from Taichung, we moved on back to Taipei, the capital city of Taiwan. We proceeded with a city tour and the places of attraction included:

Martyrs' Shrine
Set against the backdrop of hills, the Martyrs' Shrine
(3 pictures below) was built in honour of those who sacrificed their lives fighting for the Republic of China. The buildings on this compound, modelled after Ming Dynasty palaces, are skillfully crafted. Two military police officers stand guard at the front gate on Peian Road while two other officers guard the main shrine inside. The changing of the guards occurs once every hour and is quite an elaborate process.

Entrance at the front gate

Inner entrance of the Martyrs' Shrine The changing of the guards

National Palace Museum
The National Palace Museum
(2 pictures below) has an antique collection of nearly 700,000 pieces aged almost the entire five-thousand-old Chinese history. Among the collection were Chinese earthen ware like pottery, porcelain, as well as bronze, jade ware, sculpture, embroidery, calligraphy and paintings.

The National Palace Museum grounds

The National Palace Museum grounds

Chiang Kaishek Memorial Hall
The Chiang Kaishek Memorial
(below left) is a large walled compound fronted by a traditional Chinese arched gate. The architecture is in Chinese style, topped with a massive blue-tiled roof, capped with a golden peak on top, producing a majestic appearance. The park covers a space of 24 hectares, with a wide open plaza.

Inside the hall, a ground-level library displays photos and mementos of the late president's life and a bronze statue of the late president (below right). Soldiers on guard at the Memorial are changed every hour.

Chiang Kaishek Memorial

Bronze statue of Chiang Kaishek

As we had loads of time to kill before dinner, we walked around town to scout for bargains and for some last-minute shopping. After dinner, it was another round of shopping at Shilin night market, one of the oldest and largest and Hwahsi night market, which sold exotic food like snake meat and turtle meat.

17 June 2004 - Home
Ah, it's always nice to know that I was going home. Home sweet home...

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You will notice from reading my itinerary that many hours were spent on travelling from one place to another. Fortunately the attractions at every destination made it worth the while.

On this trip, I found out that:
▪ The sky gets really bright at 5 a.m! Remember to have your curtains drawn if you want to sleep-in. Then again, being on tour wouldn't really allow much sleep, would it?
▪ Convenience stores (like Family Mart/7-eleven) do not provide plastic/carry bags. You are expected to hand/arm-carry your 1-litre bottle of water, your few packets of junk food and your assorted of other stuff you bought to try.
▪ Postcards aren't very popular. So make sure you snap more of your own photographs. *snap*snap*
▪ Public toilets aren't so bad after all. In fact, they were quite clean (or at least the ones I visited.
▪ The egg shells are white in colour (well, it's brown back home)
(below left)

An egg which looked like salted duck egg to me

Siu loong bao

Food to try while you are in Taiwan:
▪ The papaya milk (with blended papayas, fresh milk and evaporated milk) is a signature drink in Taiwan and it's definitely worth a mention here. Yum!
▪ Try fermented quail eggs: black, chewy and err...fermented, of course!
▪ Never, never miss out 'mochi'
▪ Try the "siu loong bao" (little dragon buns), shaped and tasted like pork dumplings except that it has gravy in the buns
(above right).

Things that you might want to do (that I definitely missed out - with intention):
▪ Try chewing on betel nut (not for beginners)
▪ Try the Taiwanese stinky tofu (probably less stinky that the ones in Hong Kong)
▪ Try the bittergourd drink
(below left)
▪ Try their ever-so-famous intestines (of all sorts - they stink!)
(below right)
▪ Try taking exotic snake soup, snake blood, snake meat (gross, eww!)

White bitter gourd to be blended into a drink

Intestines - gross!

And finally, I have neither tried listening to nor tried speaking nor tried understanding so much Mandarin in my life before! Note: Go for crash classes before visiting Taiwan.

As if that wasn’t bad enough, I had to forget my spare batteries for both my camera and my mobile phone. And what was worst? I had a 32MB memory card in my digital camera instead of the 256MB one. Pfffttt! Special thanks to Eileen who made photo-taking possible for me after all.

Till I go somewhere again, tata!

Love,
Fran


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